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One of my Moroccan friends introduced me to gnawa music in 2021. When I first heard this style of music, it sounded so familiar to me. When I did research on its origins, I understood why. Gnawa music originates from slaves who were brought to Morocco from sub-Saharan Africa beginning around the 11th century. They were most likely from Mali, Senegal, Chad, and Nigeria. 60 Minutes did a segment on Gnawa music.
What attracted me to gnawa music was how similar it is to American blues and the call and response that is typical in Black American churches. I was delighted to learn that there is a Gnawa Music Festival that takes place in Essaouira every year (pronounced "es-swear-ra"). This year, I was able to go and I had a great time. The concerts were all free, unless you opted for VIP tickets. I booked my trip one month in advance and the VIP tickets were already sold out. The VIP section wasn't as crowded and was located in front of the stage, so I recommend them if you plan to go.
There were three stages at the Gnawa Festival: two at the beach and one at Moulay Hassan Plaza, which is located in the city center. Concerts started in the evening and each stage had multiple acts that went on past midnight. Generally, the first acts were gnawa artists and the later acts were artists that played other genres of music. Also, there was an opening gnawa parade in the afternoon prior to the opening concert. I suggest that you line up early. Cultural centers and restaurants had gnawa performances during the day. As I walked through the city, I heard gnawa everywhere and stumbled onto some impromptu performances. There were also afternoon practice performances on the main stages.
Besides, the Gnawa Festival, Essaouira is a cool place to visit. It's a small city, but it's definitely worth spending a few days enjoying the food, the cats, and the sites. Essaouira prides itself on not being Marrakech. It is a lot more chill and the sellers are a lot less aggressive, but be sure to bargain even if there's a price tag, at least 50% off the asking price. Prices are much cheaper than in Marrakech. Also, there are a lot of low quality argan oils, especially in the medina, so I did some research and found a legit shop outside of the tourist area, Zipdrop Argan Oil. I had to walk by a penitentiary to get there, but it was worth it. The owner was very nice and showed me the process of making argan oil and let me try argan for cooking. It was tasty! Great with bread.
All of the taxi drivers that I dealt with were, shockingly, honest about the price, which was a far cry from Marrakech and Egypt. The government sets the taxi rates: 150 MAD ($15) for a taxi to and from the airport and 8 MAD ($0.82) for taxis around the city. Essaouira was walkable and I didn't need public transportation, except for to and from the airport. Note that only grand taxis can go to the airport and long distances. There is a grand taxi center that is walking distance from the city center. In Google Maps type in "Gare des grand taxi." In terms of sim cards, I got mine in the city. Moroc Telecom works well and I bought the sim from an electronics shop and he told me to go to a shop around the corner to add minutes.
SIGHTSEEING
There is a beach in Essaouira. My Moroccan friend said that western style swimsuits are acceptable, but if you want to avoid unwanted attention and gawking, opt for a modest bathing suit that covers your thighs, midriff, and shoulders.
Café l’esprit
The Old City Walls was the site of many impromptu gnawa jam sessions, so it's definitely worth hanging around if you go during the Gnawa Festival. On the walls are Spanish cannons and below there are a line of shops.
City Walls
On the flight to Essaouira, I happened to sit next to an Israeli woman who recommended that I visit Bayt Dakira Jewish Museum. The descriptions were only in Arabic and French. Luckily, my brain has retained some knowledge of the latter.
A combination of Hebrew and Arabic greetings at Bayt Dakira Jewish Museum
Bab El Marsa was built in 1766 and it is one of the main gates on the current wall of the Essaouira Medina. There was a sign that said, "No swimming." However, there was a group of young men diving and swimming near the wall. They were definitely having a good time.
Le Real Mogador, centre d'art. The house itself is a work of art. The owner asked that guests keep the second floor door closed, because the street cats make themselves at home. If you are a cat person, you'll love Morocco.
Le Real Mogador, centre d'art
The tomb of Rabbi Haim Pinto (1743-1845) stands prominently in the center of the Jewish Cemetery. In 1998, a mausoleum was built on his grave. The newest grave is from 1963. Most of the Jews left Essaouira for Israel decades ago.
Gallery Kasbah
SAFETY
In terms of violent crime, Morocco, is safe. However, I had a few groping incidents that were the most brazen I've ever experienced. The first one happened when I was watching a jam session by some Brazilian performers on the city walls. A man came VERY close behind me. Instinctively, I moved forward and he also moved forward. That's when I realized that this was no accident and I elbowed him. About 10 minutes later, some women in front of me were yelling at a man about inappropriate touching. I noticed that all of the men at the concerts were standing behind their girlfriends. This appears to be a common issue, so be very vigilant about your space.
SHOPPING
Gallery Kasbah
M'andrea's
Zidrop Argan Oil
Centre de la Bijouterie Artisanale Maalem Ali
Koulchi Concept Store
RESTAURANTS
Fish Burger
Restaurant Chez les Freres
Retro Corner Resto
Café l’esprit
Cafe Restaurant Berber
Koozina Garden
Koulchi Concept Store rooftop cafe
Restaurant Les Alizes Mogador